It is always difficult to make selections of "the best", as it is such a transitory business. I am basically a rock climber and as such have no great experience of other gnarly pursuits such as big mountains or ice climbing. However, on that sun-drenched island I could fit in ten routes to keep me busy above the soft, warm sand and blue ocean.

1. Controlled Burning, E3 (Lundy)

Brilliant route, brilliant name, brilliant place. A full 150' pitch of every type of jam possible, with a five-foot roof and the technical, delicate crux at the top. As Gary Gibson quotes in Extreme Rock, "Every jam that went in seemed to leave its own personal scar and memory." You wouldn't want to do this one many times without getting your crack technique sorted. 

2. The Crack, E6 (Kendal Wall)

Climbing walls are much maligned in my opinion. Often criticised as unlike "real climbing" and "bad for you", they usually present more high quality climbing in one small area than any crag in Britain. Kendal wall is a great place and for the hardened Grit addict The Crack is 70' of brilliant jamming with the crux at the top. It is almost worth taping up for.

3. Wickid Willie, E5 (Hodge Close)

I love slate. You either love it or hate it; well I love it. It takes nerve, subtlety and guile to climb the routes and the holds are generally so small on the harder routes you have to use technique. Wicked Willie is in fact quite well protected but still run out in places. For a man-made climb with a full rope length of quality it takes some beating.

4. Huntsmans Leap (Pembroke)

I would really like to take the entire Pembroke coast to my desert island but I will have to cheat and take perhaps the best and most atmospheric bit. There is not a poor route in The Leap and I would love to do them all.

5. Pasteles de Isabel, 7b (Sa Gubia)

If you were as scared of slippy, gnarly, grotty British limestone as I was, it comes as a delightful surprise to find that not far away there is a fantastic alternative. Bolted, warm, superb friction, combined with good food and wine. Sa Gubia is the best crag on Mallorca and worth the walk up for anybody, climber or not. Pasteles de Isabel is a stunning tufa column nearly 30 metres long, sustained but never desperate, with techical moves up a superb wall of red rock. My hands are sweating typing this! I could do this one again and again.

6. Blubble (The Black Route), 7b (Penrith Wall)

One afternoon, just before a hold change, Tony and I were playing at the wall, as you do. Tony hit on the idea of "retro turning" the holds on the easy black route over the overhang and "Blubble" was born. As a route it took five minutes to set and about two days to climb, but it seemed to encapsulate all the good things about climbing; the camaraderie, fun and banter, all in a bizarre setting. The moves on the route were superb and even when one had it wired it was never easy.

7. Gaia, E8 6c (Black Rocks)

Never done it and not likely to! A lovely piece of rock architecture. The crux is shown nicely in the opening sequence of "Hard Grit" where a certain Frenchman nearly decks it. I reckon that above a nice soft sandy landing it might feel OK . . . . . . on a top rope?

8. Angel of Mercy, E1 5a, 5b (Gable Crag)

This route just made my selection, not because it is the best route in the Lakes but because the day I did it and the setting helped to make it a delightful experience. A solid, if unspectacular first pitch leads to a cramped stance. Exposed and exciting climbing leads left then up a stunning crack in the headwall. I hate the descent from Gable Crag so I'll have a palm tree on top to abseil off.

9. Positron, E5 6a, 6a (Gogarth)

If I live on this desert island I might get used to the sea! Positron on the Main Cliff at Gogarth looks superb and would be high on my list of routes to do or get taken up.

10. Via Normal, Grade Unknown (Motherby "Woody")

With all these routes to get fit for I would have to train. The roof on our "woody" would help and I can swap the holds around when I get bored.

Luxury

Lots of friends to climb with as it would be no fun on your own.

Books

"Deep Play" by Paul Prichard, "Journey to the Centre of the Earth" by the Craine brothers.

Jim Arnold