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It's very difficult to avoid all my choices being E3 5c routes at Pembroke but I tried hard if only to make it more interesting to any readers. Not necessarily the best or the hardest but the most memorable and consequently ones I have led. Oh, and some of them might be on a sea cliff. America - Carn Gowla, Cornwall E3/4 5c, 2nd ascentWe approached at sea level, lassoed a spike on the other side of the zawn, tyroleaned across and pulled the rope through. Totally committed and Arni (Strapcans) only just managed to lead the first pitch. We pointedly did not discuss what we would do if he failed. T. rex - Wen Zawn, Gogarth E3 5cAn early ascent in the days before I learnt to hand jam. I laybacked most of the first pitch to the hand traverse right to the stance. As hands seemed to have expired this became an elbow traverse. Yellow Edge - Avon E3 5cAnother early ascent in the mid 70's, before E grades, when it was a big, frightening route. On the second pitch Ken put a runner on an old iron quarry spike and jumped off. Reassured that the rope would hold if he fell off we proceeded to the top. I climbed it again twenty years later with Ronnie (see Ronnie's top 20 - Ed) and the frightening top pitch seemed totally tame and relaxing. Concepts of what is normal and acceptable had changed drastically in that time. Transformer - Gower E3 5cI thought it a fantastic route the first time I did it, so repeated it a year later and added a new direct finish. Brave New World - Pembroke E3 5cA greasy boulder problem start, a massive easy overhang which is turned by a barn-door move onto a steep wall, sprint up this and bridge up the groove above. They don't come much better than this. Zepplin - Pembroke E3 5cOutrageously steep. Can be done in one pitch but the stance is wild for E3. Under and overhung, I felt like a fledgling about to be tipped out of the nest on its first flight. (Good views of Rock Idol - the best E1 in the world?) Supercharger - Skye E3 5cRain coming in, a monster 300' abseil, only just managed to pull around the top overhang onto wet ledges. Dream/Liberator connection - Cornwall E3 6aRunning out of superlatives! Worth doing anyway! Kleptomaniac - The Burren E3 6aFootless finger jamming the thuggy cracks higher up. Exorcist - Armathwaite E4 5cNearly on a sea cliff and a bit nearer home. Not led on-sight but a route I wanted to do for some time. Two booksThe Great Design - Particles, Fields and Creation. In the hope that I would have time to actually understand quantum physics and relativity and not just read about it. Jan Morris' triptych on the rise and fall of the British Empire. LuxuryRadio Four
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